WATCH, IT WILL GO STRAW FIRST THEN PROCEED THROUGH THE SPECTRUM
TAKE OUT WHEN DESIRED COLORATION IS REACHED
MOKU-TI COLORING
MAKE SURE EVERYTHING IS CLEAN AND OIL FREE
TAKE PROPANE OR MAP GAS TORCH AND HEAT PART AS EVENLY AS POSSIBLE
WHEN DESIRED COLORATION IS REACHED DROP IN WATER TO STOP THE COLORING PROCESS
FOR DARKER COLORS PARTS WILL BE ORANGE BEFORE QUENCH
MOKUME: THERE ARE A LOT OF PRODUCTS ON THE MARKET TO PATINA MOKUME. ANY OF THEM WILL GIVE YOU A LITTLE DIFFERENT RESULT.
FERRIC CHLORIDE DOES WELL
SIMPLY RUBBING THE PART WITH YOUR FINGERS WILL PATINA IT IN A COUPLE OF DAYS
HEAT MAY BE APPLIED FOR ANOTHER COLOR VARIATION
ETCHING STAINLESS
USE A 50/50 MIX OF FERRIC CHLORIDE AND WHITE VINEGAR. I NEVER GO PAST 400 GRRT FINISH. AFTER THAT YOU ARE MAKING IT HARDER FOR THE CHEMICALS TO REACT WITH THE STEEL.
SOAK TIME IN THE MIXTURE DEPENDS ON THE DESIRED FINISH. THE LONGER YOU LEAVE IT IN THE MORE TOPOGRAPHY YOU WILL GET.
WHEN REMOVING THE PART FROM THE MIXTURE GO STRAIGHT INTO A SOLUTION OF WATER AND BAKING SODA
THEN INTO A CLEAN WATER BATH NO WIPING!!!!!
BLOW DRY WITH AIR HOSE COAT WITH WD-40 AND LET SET 6 TO 7 HOURS (THIS LETS THE OXIDE SET UP)
AFTER IT HAS SET YOU CAN WIPE
CARBON/MOSAICETCHING
50/50 FERRIC CHLORIDE WHITE VINEGAR MIX
TIME DEPENDS ON DESIRED RESULT. THE LONGER YOU LEAVE IT IN THE DEEPER IT WILL ETCH.
WATER BAKING SODA WASH
CLEAN WATER RINSE
WIPE DRY
COAT WITH OIL
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